I have fond memories of a bowl at the Riverhouse in Bend, silky smooth and lightly flavoured with sweet red bell peppers.
The Sea Hag in Depot Bay does a fine chowder, as does any Doogers on the Northwest coast.
I even had a bowl in New England itself once, in Boston, but it wasn't any better than any I have eaten on the West Coast.
This bowl was very delicious, almost smoky-tasting, and full of tender fresh clams.
We found it at the Silver Salmon, in Astoria, where we landed on Friday afternoon.
After a slightly slow drive through the woods and mountains with a gazillion other Independence Day revelers.
To our favourite bed-and-breakfast, The Rosebriar.
Which is showing its age, being a historic house and, I suspect, a little neglected of late. Our room smelled of sweaty socks, so I "borrowed" a candle from the lobby and we ran a fan most of the time. The first time we stayed there, about 20 years ago, the landlady assured us that they prided themselves on their immaculate cleanliness. She was right, it was the cleanest place I have ever stayed, before or since. About 10 years ago, we visited again, and it was, sadly, shabbier.
However, they do provide a breakfast to die for.
Fresh fruit and banana pancakes the first day.
Fruit again and strawberry french toast the second.
This is our last stay at the Rosebriar, as it has been bought by a big company for a rehab house of sorts.
Sniff.
More to come.
